After our memorable night of Eid, we take our bag-a-back, and we share a station dala-dala, these vehicles were called that song theaw in Thailand which consist of two parallel benches at the back of a large pickup cover. The bags are on the roof, and we cups in rows of onions. Passengers who ride en route crouch in the middle. It was up to 50 people at a time, in a density maximized or bags of tomatoes or cages (with the chickens inside of course) or they may slip, and the children settle down on her knees free. At least there is wind, and then it advances quickly. Here we have Matmwe, a small village on the northeast coast of Zanzibar, destination advised by the Friends of the Alliance Francaise in Dar Es Salaam. 
As usual, we will see the first hotel coming. We discover lush gardens, a swimming pool with mats for lounging in the sun, a huge reception and a bar with colorful bottles. The night costs $ 80 U.S. per person. We used to live three days with two kind of money! They want a cheaper hotel and they tell us a hotel Accessible by nearby beach. It discovers that the old european too fat, lounging in a swimsuit in the sun. The other hotel is cheaper: $ 60 U.S. per person per night. The head offers us his own room for $ 20 U.S. per night per person. It is shabby, the bathroom outside the shower employees at the other end of the complex. It goes up to $ 25 U.S. a night if we have two remaining 4 days, showing that U.S. $ 100 in his pocket he would rudely pleasure. But there is no question of supporting this rotten mood. Here too, old european (some are physically young, but already old in their tastes) wallow too fat behind their computers. We learn that there are "Mohamed bungalows a little further, and the name seems familiar, probably because he has heard the Alliance. Then there was the beach. 
On the way to ensure that did not exceed our destination, we enter what is believed to be a hotel, but is a private residence, two blonde at the pool. Through the open living room bay window, a young black woman tells us. The total disorder reigns in the house, put up a layer usee the ground. We understand that it does not hamper the white masters: bamboula will clean. Since they do not know Mohamed, one tries to neighbors. A french (too fatty!) informs us wrong in saying that there is nothing less "60 fraud" per person, and asks us if we saw the house of Freddy Mercury Stone Town. He said it was not known. He says we should read our Backpacker. He said that does not use a guide, we do not need. The evidence was heard without a guide 
that Freddy Mercury was born in Stone Town. Taking leave, and back on the beach we say he did not understand everything. What is nice with Freddy Mercury, is its songs, aps his house. It was agreed that even when dasn chic dinner in Neuilly, a "we visited the home of Freddy Mercury Stone Town, it is not over there, you know?" AC must get to him who utters the delicious feeling of reading in the eyes of his Interl; ocuteur a toxic mix of shame of ignorance (well no, you knew it) and the jealousy of the exotic. We thought that was a buffoon, and it picks up a sharp seashell on the beach. 
We discover a little later the reality of the village of Matemwe. People living in sin, that men have practiced small sailboats with double outrigger, Spear or by swimming. Water is drawn from the wells with buckets. There is no electricity. Children wear old clothes and play without toys in the dust raised by the occasional air-conditioned taxis which carry mzungu (foreigners). There are 5 hotels with 10 clients a day who each spend $ 100 U.S. per day. These are $ 5000 U.S. per day, $ 150,000 U.S. per month, $ 1,800,000 U.S. per year coming into the village ... which has neither electricity nor paved roads, or even pump water to the well. The gap between populations among the poorest we've seen since the beginning of travel, tourism and the most luxurious, is disgusting. Redistribution of wealth is non-existent. All profits go to owners of hotels, too foreign. Locals do not pick up the crumbs, like organizing tours snorkle. We will come back. 
But back to our sheep: us. You can find bungalows and Mohamed and his radiant smile. The sand garden is simple but very ornate. The cottage is simple but clean, and the net very well established. We negotiated Tshillings 50,000 or $ 33 U.S. a night for two. Meals are not given, but what a treat! Lobster, octopus, fish with coconut, clalmars grids are divine. The portions are overabundant, and accompanied by rice or fries with Magali heberluee say: "they are still better than mama!" (Yes Cathy, we hate you prove otherwise!) 
The perfect place to relax, especially since we are only occupants on the first day, with children and nieces who are Mohamed on holiday after the Eid. Parties Awale, TV, race-pursuit on the beach ... The good mood of the children shone on us. It must be said that the places are wonderful. The beach is an infinite space, rhythm only by coconut land side, and wooden boats rated water. 100m offshore, the reef forms a barrier that protects the waves. At high tide, you can swim. At low tide, you can walk. Therefore rest with the menu writing, reading, yoga, jogging, karate. When I do my kata on the beach, a group of young boys starting to imitate me. Some are doing well, others try to make fun of me, but did not lead off when I turn around by running my kiai ("cry that kills"). Adults are also interested, but watching from afar before moving their way. 
One morning at low tide, we put on our bathing suits for a swim, our shoes to protect us urchins, and our tshirt to protect us from the sun, and we head towards the reef, our weapons and our snorkel mask. It first passes through a lawn of algae, then you come near coral. The land is not obvious, we have water up to mid-thigh, and beware of sea urchins, but still very numerous. All around us: the turquoise blue, speckled with black and red coral ousrin. With the mask, there is some nice white fish with black zebras. Further, a shoal of fish green water. Here a big red copper. Starfish also red, blue or black. Highlight of the show: a sand-colored seahorse slips between two massive coral red. The wind and the sky was overcast, so we have a little cold water on our dry suits. 
Just before reaching the reef, we cross Tano, a fisherman with his palms, his spear, a large knife and five taken enormous. He said he saw dolphins off this morning and in the open sea, there are really big fish! We finally arrived at the reef. Breathtaking scenery, quasiement dish would do the stones here and there, and a nice soft green algae. Small crabs in shambles and wanderers. Then we return, seeing little by little grow the cocottiers the beach and as far as we approach the lunch. Back at the hotel, Mohamed explains the stakes that we have seen in the bay are used to attach ropes on which the women grow and harvest of red algae.
They are then dried and sold to Japanese companies, which use them for food and cosmetics. It also tells us that the reef is a perfect lioeu for octopus fishing, only practicing specialists, because it is a very smart animal, able for example to block the fisherman in him tying his hands with his tentacles . We octopus, we like grid with chips! The next day we start making snorkle boat near an island. Say it now, the fish were fantastic site. There was a lot, that is to say to us more in Belize or Perhentiennes islands. We saw large schools of yellow fish, anemones and Nemo strange, you even have a beautiful white and black spotted murene (
going to write white with black spots, but said Magali black with white spots!) Impressive see its mouth open wide, half out of her hiding under the coral. However, the beauty of the site was not sufficient to guarantee a good morning. Already the sea runs high, and Magali is a bit sick during the approach. Then, the water is cold and frankly there is a strong current. The coral is in very bad condition. The equipment is defective. One of the masks leaking, is another child. Fortunately that case, we took ours (which is yet not high quality). The guide announces that this is actually to lift the anchor, since there is already a driver for the boat. In the matter of guides elsewhere, they do not even ask us if it's going well, or if it rained when we are back on board without help. Fruit promised for the little hungry after a swim are not. Only the orange peels driver evoke something edible.
Worse: while we were tired of swimming against the current, one hand resting on the beach. It sits quietly, his feet still wet from the waves. Immediately a guy happens to look bad. Before saying hello, he yells at us and trying to bite our fins. We understand when he says that the island is private we have no right to be there. Unbelievable that our "guides" we do not have accused. Even more incredible the aggressiveness he displayed while we are sitting at sjuste blow. He says he'll call the police, and we'll go to jail. It makes us laugh, but rather than annoy the yellow sincerely. When one thinks to Perhentiennes islands for the same price of 15 euros per person (30000 T.shillings), we saw 4 spots, a turtle, sharks, coral reef and a fantastioques in "high" sea near an a lighthouse, with a lovely young guide, smiling and enthusiastic. 
It includes here, white is perceived only as a cash cow that will align biffetons. With fishing, it would take two weeks to make as much, and they did nothing else but drive the boat and sleep in the sun. You tell it was Mohammed, returning. He notes, visibly embarrassed. Zanzibar leaves a bitter taste in the mouth, especially since we have yet not skimp on resources. Only Australia has seen daily spending more than here. Singapore was not even as expensive! But conclude on a happy note, and the lovely gatherings of our neighbors travelers. A German policeman Freiburg, Jens, a smile from ear to ear. He travels only one month in Tanzania, and tells amazes his safari in Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. We also met two Australians who go back to Africa by motorcycle. They teach us that the Ethiopian embassy in Kampala, Uganda, can make a visa for us french. You start thinking about changing our plans.
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