O
n out of the Khartoum airport with our heavy bags. It's hot, very hot. We take a minibus to the Souq Al Arabi, ie the city center. We got off the bus, and immediately two men walking down the street RESOLVE to support us at the hotel Khalil we ask them. We walk a quarter of an hour with them to go. Both wear a white turban on his head and wearing a large djelabah. Reaching the hotel, they make us sit at the terrace restaurant and order grapefruit juice 4. Their smiles spread over their faces, large ears: "Welcome to Sudan! The more we considered age as his enfants.Une rafarichis time and rest, they accompany us at the hotel and make us see the room or we install. A photo soouvenir, and here they go again. Our first good meeting "has the Sudanese." 
the hotel where we're staying is low end. Only men are sleeping, and to have a private space, we take a triple room (it pays 3 to 3 * 12 = 36 LS). Sitting inside, it feels like an oven. Everything is better quandon turns the fan on the ceiling, then it's like in a giant hair dryer. To tell you the heat was realized since the wax epilation Magali Khartoum has melted! At night we open all the windows, which overlook the terrace and the hotel corridors to allow air circulation cooler. The intimacy is not very latimes places, and besides, it's just outside our door that spont installed carpet that tenants do their prayer. 
Our first impression is arrived dansune beautiful city (easy after the corrugated metal walls of Juba). We note that there are many private cars, buildings of several floors. We stayed at the heart of the Souq Al Arabi, ie downtown. As in Kampala, he reigns a sort of quiet excitement, which is reminiscent of the quiet bubbles an aspirin is thinner in his glass of water. Besides, you can take a glass every street corner. In the shelter of a tree, or under the shady arcades that run along a building, there is always a lady surrounded small stools. Faced with a row of jars containing herbs and the spices, a small fire and a kettle. She serves tea, coffee or m karkade (or hibiscus infusion fetish Magali, recalling the taste of red fruits). 
Many times we are invited, and it's always unplaisir to chat with Sudan. One knows a dozen words of Arabic, they often little more than English, and there are proper names, beginning with "Zidane"! We must say that after a year of travel, one is amazed by the kindness and warm hospitality of Sudan. Already in Juba, we were offered several times of mineral water, or pay the minibus route. In Khartoum, we first go to our license photo. This is done to the Department Tourism, a dilapidated building or a few people are sitting empty offices too. They are so friendly, it's a pleasure to do an administrative procedure. Draw goes to the national museum, or you start with lunch .... The FUL is a typical Sudanese dish: asparagus with black bean oil that is eaten by hand with bread. As it stands, it's a bit ettouffe-Christian, but it is often served with cheese and sometimes with a few vegetables. Eaten, although one must admit that after two weeks of this regime, our intestines do not rejoice as much.
The museum has some nice pieces, dating from different periods or Nubia was incorporated into the Egyptre or on the contrary has prevailed along the Nile. On the outside, some from reconstructed temples along the Nile that were submerged when the Egyptians built the Aswan barage, which created Lake Nasser. But what we prefer, what are the paintings of the 6-eglisesd 7th centuries, now submerged under the same lake. We discover wings of the archangels, saints and Byzantine Greek. That's funny to think that at one time all of Africa's North East was Christian. Islam has taken over, and Christianity has declined locally due to its isolation vis-a-vis Europe. Remains a minority Coptic, and of course Ethiopia. 
Late after-noon nap after a shortened, because the power cut has stopped the fan, but offset by two new grapefruit juice, which was elected "best drink on earth", not least, we see the confluence of the two Nile Blue and White. It is accessed through an amusement park a bit dull during the week, overwhelmed by heat. Sitting in the shade of a tree, looking at the fishermen and the Nile while sipping a Fanta. 
Another nice walk in Khartoum was the Souq Omdurman. A little galley to find the minibus to go, but the place is beautiful. It's just a big market, or selling everything: clothes, kitchen utensils, fruit, meat, spices, carpets, fabrics ... We walk there, greeting people, taking some pictures. Nothing special, except the kindness of heat andthe Sudan. I took a grocer enphoto me thank us offrantun bag of dates. Further, we are invited to drink a soda through a grandfather. It responds to some of his questions: "Franca", "Jeremy", "Magali", we show our (false) alliance to say we're married, "No, no kids yet, but you travel first, then we will when we're calm has returned to the house! " We also note the address (in Arabic) of our interlocutor, fFor send the pictures to our return. Often, the Sudanese have invited to take a drink, a way for them, which can generalementpas travel, discover untant is little the rest of world. 
Return minibus has been fairly adventurous. Must traverserle Nile, and at this hour of the day, 3 of 4 lanes of the bridge moving in opposite direction to ours. This annoys our driver, who goes into reverse on two opposite. The oncoming vehicle shake painfully so we advance gradually, followed by a queue of opportunists. Half-bridge, a police motorcyclist we catch him, said something to the driver and eventually crossed. Nepas to deal with him, our driver turned around as soon all the vehicles that followed us. Water boatmen for not police, we must take a big detour to cross the next bridge, but all's well that ends well we return to hotel. 
Thursday morning at 6am, we went to the "bus station" Sajan, who had spotted the previous day. This is actually a boutiqueau edge of the avenue, or there is a grandbus, and two ladies who serve tea. Magali drinks a karkade myself a coffee with spices, draw gets in a beautiful air-conditioned bus, a confoirt we have not seen in Thailand for 6-hour drive up to Karima. 
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