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Voyager Travel in Sudan Sudan

Voici un petit texte technique donnant des informations sur notre voyage au Soudan en octobre 2010. Il nous a ete difficile, voire impossible de trouver des informations a l'avance. On a utilise or the first time in our trip a tour guide, the Bradt Paul Clammer, but although reprinted in 2008, the edition that we bought in Kampala from 2005, and information a bit cooler we would have been better organized travel, especially in the South. We give them to you, hoping that it will be useful if you are traveling.

We arrived the Uganda. There are direct buses Kampala-Juba. We were in Gulu, and we waited from 5.30am to 9am without seeing arriving bus. Around 9am, a dala-dala has moved to take the passengers (many had expected) at the border Nimule. It took Ugandan shillings each for 20000. The track is not very good at first, then AC runs well. By 4 o'clock, we reached the border. Passports are stamped at the last city of Uganda, there is exchange our last shilling has a good rate (1 Sudanese pound = 750 Ugandan shillings). The minibus leaves us at the border, cross the bridge on foot. It stamps the passport and was lucky to find space on a bus that leaves immediately Kenya (40 per person for LS Nimule-Juba). Without AC, it would probably not until the next day. The track is very good up to Juba. Some military control, or the drivers give some tickets to controllers. We arrive at Juba to 19h, it's dark.

A Sudanese we had recommended a hotel , whose name is given to the two boda-boda (motorbike taxi) to transport us (not obvious with large bags, but at night, without knowing the city and with more than $ 1,000 in cash on us, one does not walk). The night will cost $ 200. We try the Olympic Hotel, the night costing $ 120. It fails at the Flamingo (not the name) or the night costs 25 LS. The estate is infamous: corrugated metal walls, single bed, a small fan that stops at midnight when the generator is turned over, fleas in the bed, rats running along a pole between the roof and floor, bathroom bastards, or we wash the tub with water from the Nile. A funny fauna lodge. One of our neighbors moved to buy mercury to be sold in France. He sleeps with a revolver under his pillow. A really special atmosphere.

Better to go to nearby Mountain View, built in hard drive, which was discovered after 2 days. It has negotiated a room at 120 (LS 150L is required), $ 50. There is the air conditioning when the electricity market, when the fan is on generator. Private bathroom, spotless. There's even a TV with a stack of DVDs in the lobby. One of the few luxury hotels in Juba intermediate, even though prices may rise if the owner follows his plans and tele-Fi in every room. This will depend on the referendum scheduled in January 2011 on the independence of South Sudan.

Currently, the situation is unclear, with a double administration from Khartoum, and a GoSS (Government of South Sudan) semi-independent, which provides many entry permits in the region including the Ugandan and Kenyan who come to enjoy the economic boom. We did our visa Kampala (Sudanese national government to continue further north). Deposed Friday afternoon, they were received Tuesday at noon. They cost 55,000 Ugandan shillings per person, about $ 25. Arrived in Juba, we had to register to immigration police. It cost us 150 LS per person, about $ 50. We asked for and received a receipt when we saw they offered us nothing. There was not even filled form arrival, but they have our passport stamps (in Arabic so we could read nothing).

The city of Juba we were not passionate. There are three main areas: the city known as "Juba," the walk-Konyo Konyo near the port and bus station Kustom which were near our hotels (Flamingo and Mountain View). A Kustom, there are money changers the black market. I must say that everyone wants dollars, and that the offices did not provide enough forex (without proof or not?). Always it is that Forex was dollar exchange rate $ 1 = 2.36LS, while in the street (although installed with table and umbrella) the rate is $ 1 = 2.90LS, but was down $ 1 = 2.80LS if the ticket is spot .

We wanted to reach Khartoum without using the aircraft. Roads are flooded (this is the case, three quarters of the year), but there are barge traveling on the Nile . We have not had any luck, one of them was leaving within the hour, we arrived at the port, while our bags were at the hotel and we had not planned provisions. Indeed, the trip lasts eight days (half Malakal least halfway). The barges are about 50m long, and there is only one area Built at the rear, 2 or 3 floors. As a passenger, you get on the bridge, homeless, without food organized. We must therefore provide for a tent to protect from sun and rain (we had torrential downpours in Juba), mattress, micropur tablets to purify water from the Nile, and what to eat for 10 days. On the barge we visit, they said we can use the kitchen, but we think it is wise to have its own gas cooker and saucepan. So a real logistics (that we could foresee a time), but not very complicated. In Juba, you can buy rice (4LS kilogram), boxes of canned (5LS box) such as tuna, corn, beans, chickpeas ... More complicated to buy pans (they sell the entire battery with one that is 1m in diameter!) or a stove, it would be better to predict the Kampala. We were told that the 70LS week trip costs per passenger. It may be 100L if you come to have a good place on the roof. The barge we saw was packed from the same people travel with their string bed.

When we inquired with the next to go, we heard two days. It has prepared the start, and when we arrived in port, they have repeated in two days. Was going well after the next. Unclear, but there may be a lot of waiting. However, we think it's a magical journey. We regret not having information in advance. It would have been in port earlier in the day the first time since the boats depart approximately early after noon. If you are planning such a trip, you should come to port as possible, just after the recording of immigration. Remember also that we need a permission for the trip, which is obtained from the military port of Juba. Maybe it takes a little note, but not on. If you are traveling from the Nile, and that our information helped you, leave us a note.

was abandoned then, and took a plane to Khartoum. We only had two weeks of visa (extendable certe) and imagined Sudan not so expensive (especially the South) so we were limited financially. We think we provide for $ 80 two day waiting in Juba, which is not far after a week if you have no chance. If abandonment, Juba-Khartoum flight costing 360L per person (Sunair) and lasts 2 hours in an airplane for 3 / 4 empty.

Traveling in Northern Sudan is much calmer, but just cheaper. Journeys "Taxi" (minibus taxi as it is called in Europe is here designated as "special") cost 1LS in Juba, cons or 0.40 0.50LS Khartoum. Good meal at restaurant cost us 15 to 20LS two in both cities. The price drops a dozen pounds to the north. It recommends grapefruit juice has 1LS the large glass, which was elected "best drink in the world." In Khartoum, we prefer to change money to a forex ($ 1 = 2.46LS) rather than on the street, or it is done under the cloak, less serenely in Juba. Yet one imagines that the black market rates are cheaper.

In Khartoum, is housed in a hotel low end, the Khalil at Souq Al Arabi (downtown). We are obliged to take a room with 3 beds 12LS has the bed, the room is 36LS. The toilet and shower (a cabin with toilet and shower) are just clean, but do not remove the tongues to take a shower. Housing in Sudan presents a Astonishingly bad value for money. It was looking better, but a dingy room with air conditioning, although we have yet apreciee, cost 95LS (certe slightly negotiable). The class was similar to Al Nassr Karima (20LS) and marginally better at Wadi Halfa (30LS). There has been much apreciated hotel Al Muallem has Dongola, where we had the air conditioning, the TV and a private bath for 55LS. Hotel Lord advises the Bradt guide was really infamous and expensive.

Transportation in the North pass without pain, roads were paved recently. The air conditioned bus Khartoum Karima (30LS, 6 am, lunch provided) and Shelter in Wadi Halfa (20LS, 2h) are very comfortable. The minibus that we Karima has used Dongola (20LS, 2h), has Kerma Dongola (8LS, 1h) and Kerma has Rooftops (25LS, 3h) are less luxurious and mostly leave only when full, ie that a much awaited departure.

Internet was very expensive to Juba (3LS for 15 minutes, although the rate was down), and very cheap in Khartoum and Dongola (1LS per hour). Note also that it must do after the law permits to take photos . This is done safely at Khartoum, Ministry of Tourism. It's free and quick. It is anyway not allowed to take photographs of strategic sites, such as bridges, and degrading things like beggars. Even when attention has to ask when you take a picture, because we met a Canadian has been in trouble for taking pictures of a donkey.

Regarding visits, we saw the national museum in Khartoum 3LS perswonne, and it was by the Mogran to see the confluence of the Nile, 5LS per person. The archaeological sites we saw cost $ 10 per site per person, systematically converted to a convenient 20LS. It was almost alone at the three sites of Jebel Barkal, El Kurru (a Karima) and Defufa (a Kerma).

After a fabulous stay (the Sudanese are the most welcoming people we've met), we took the ferry to Egypt to Wadi Halfa . 95LS it costs per person for 2nd class, 160L in the first cabin. The price includes a meal. It was installed on the upper deck for most of the trip, especially for the night. Very good atmosphere on board, where people are happy to discuss a bit. Departure at 17h, but we were on board 13h, after a string of administrative painless STEPS (21LS Tax Release in Sudan). We arrived in Aswan at 10am the next day. Only drawback, I forgot 100L in one of my pockets, and could not change that rate of infamous Egyptian 1.6Livre 1LS = (cons 1LS = 2.4The through dollar).

Finally, travel to Sudan has been a real happiness, even if there is not much special shopping opportunities. The only drawback was the abscence distributor Visa or MasterCard (there are many ATM bank Islamic Khartoum), which has forced budget in advance and travel with large sums of cash . We spent two 1050euros ($ 1,400) in 14 days, including 230euros ($ 300) for tickets Juba-Khartoum. For such a budget, comfort was very bad compared to Uganda or Egypt. It is our view the only defect of Sudan, of being an expensive country as very isolated.

Contacts: we met two friends who work in tourism Dongola, then they did a little advertising. They organize tours in the desert by jeep or camel, visits to archaeological sites, hotel reservations ... It can also write the letter of invitation to Sudan required for certain visa applications. They speak french, English and German, and are extremely friendly. Amin Awad, email: amzoo_2008@hotmail.com, 249,912,498,206, and Abdul Kader, email: gadoora2006@yahoo.com, 249,912,634,205, website (in Arabic): www.kaawa.blogspot.com