Fortunately, unlike Khartoum or buildings and asphalt do not end refer the night heat emmagasinnee the day, the cool down quickly to Karima. Of late after-noon when the sun hits less hard, we feel that the background air is not so unpleasant, especially when a slight breeze rises. It takes two large bottles of water, and apart from visiting the site of Jebel Barkal. The guards talk a little, then let us go to the site before paying, because the head is not yet. "Jebel" means "mountain" in Arabic, and if the word may seem exaggerated when you think of the Himalayas, the site is no less spectacular aps. We understand that it is "Barakal", ie "sacred." It is surrounded by cliffs on 3 / 4, and a rock it slightly detached, rises, fascinating, like a cobra ready to pounce.
is just east of the hill batis what were the temples of Amun and Tut. The ruins are emotionally charged because they are very few rebuilt, and are
They are not very great, but there are 5 and 3 other close together a little further. Above all, they were all to ourselves in the desert, with the glowing sun going down. We end our tour by climbing to the beautiful summit of Jebel Barkal. The sun drops below the horizon, the Nile, bordering plantations of date palms and, flowing from north to south, the city of lights slowly Karima, the children finish their game of football, and we hover somewhere between heaven and earth. A sacred mountain!
The site of El Kuru is not served by minibuses, because today is Friday morning. We take a taxi. The driver was very talkative, but he drove slowly so we can admire the canyons of the desert, or by planting the green one is distant or near the Nile. On site, the guard us down in two painted ceilings. Many gods are present, which has a falcon head, which head of an ibis, or fennec, or even crocodile. On the opposite wall, is breathing a maid to the queen, lying on her stomach, a lotus flower to revive it in the next world. Again, the starry sky is almost intact. Just deretour it jumped in the minibus to Dongola. The desert air is so hot that it is better not open the windows wide. In 200km, you meet the houses at the foot of telecommunication antennas. The desert in all its splendor, we are happy to cross a 100km / h.
Dongola is a peaceful town, or dull, your point of view. There is an air-conditioned hotel, and we spent two days sleeping and watching Latell (quite amazing to see the Devil Wears Prada from a Sudanese town!) We met some lovely people, as Solayman a grandpa that crosses one night in the fields near the Nile. He explains that it is better to have one wife. He has 4 and has all pay 4 times: clothes, shoes ... Amazing what you can tell without speaking English or Arabic we! Later, a shepherd who returns his goats seeking our help to block their passage.
We also see Amin, a guide to the perfect french, who guides us through the agricultural show in Dongola. He and his friend Abdel Kader can arrange everything in an area they know very well: ride camels in the desert, jeep tours to see archaeological sites, hotel reservation, ... It needs nothing of all this, then you drink the tea, and eat a delicious fish dish.
After two days of tele-clim, arriving at Kerma us back to the Sudanese reality. A shabby hotel where we wash the tub, but we or the Manager provides the only private room with fan. We eat near the souq, a delicious dish of ful, which accompanies a spicy chicken divine, and the boss gives us even a dish of beef, for us to taste. Sudanese meals are so rich, we do that twice a day! We visit the site Defufa only once, on this bizarre structure of brick as a paving stone giant that overlooks a city that archaeologists have reconstructed the plan. It is the oldest building known as South Africa. There is such strangeness of these civilizations that has barely imagine. In return, we walk a bit because the minibus to Kerma are full. Everyone greets us, and there in the world because it gets dark, and each family goes out drinking tea on the doorstep, while the kids play ball, or run errands by bike.
The next day they have breakfast, drink tea, we talk with the locals, they take pictures, all for waiting to fill up the minivan for shelter. After a good 3 hours, it finally takes off. 3 hour drive yet, and here we have shelter. We request the bus to Wadi Halfa, and the head office has just enough time to make a joke with a fake ice with a jump ball we face, before we get him into a pickup, joining main road where we expect a large air-conditioned buses. More than 2 hours away in the cool, but the deafening noise of an Arab film where everyone get into an argument with everyone, and we arrived in Wadi Halfa, aka "land side of the world."
many gringos are reviewed for the first time in Dar Es Salaam. It makes us funny, then takes refuge at the top of the hill to overlook the city and Lake Nasser. Wedged between the lake and an infinite desert (nothing less than 200km) the town of Wadi Halfa on Tuesday evening sees his only day of activities because of the weekly ferry passengers arriving from Egypt or South, and intersect before returning the next day. Two Egyptians, and Nassr Moasrin inviotent us to take tea. They were found the next day on the boat, and Foad, who has returned Ismailia after working in Sudan. All 3 are happy to return to their country. We discuss the best we can, which passed the long hours of journey.
At nightfall, we realized that the boat has shut down the engines and drift. We understand that it's time or the crew made his prayer. They are crazy Muslims! Moreover, at 4am, the muezzin (or rather its registration) yells to the speaker and lots of people go up on deck to prayer, facing the Northeast. It is also AC, the pace of view of Sudan, where we often saw dozens of people praying together in the street, sometimes blocking traffic. But let's be clear, the young Egyptian who accompanied us that were also completely crazy. And then goes back to sleep, to end a night where we had already been awakened by our friends, to admire the fantastic statues of Abu Simbel, near southern Egypt. Fast and far vision in the night: 4 majestic statues, illuminated by floodlights, while we replongeons into the night. Here we are in Egypt.
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