Viewed as taxis upon arrival of the ferry as lying through their teeth, we take a carriage along the road that leads to an intermediate station, from where we can go center of Aswan. The first we offer transport, while the ticket office of the minibus tried to charge us ten times the price. It will suffice for 15 minutes to understand the paradox of travel in Egypt. A rich country (it arrives in Sudan) or the people are lovely, fantastic, but where mass tourism and the money it brings is blind and bad liar. Staff the hotel El Safa, near the train station, welcoming and adorable. One imitates Donald spoke, everyone is smiling and happy that we speak a few words of Arabic (a dozen at most). By cons, a conservator is paying more than the card in English, she even already more expensive than a card in Arabic. 
At the pizzeria where we make our habits, because their pizza dough pastry filled with East of basturma is a delight, the score with or without tax based on the sympathy of the server. The pharmacist is happy to see us, but the fruit seller we scam.
You can see why things are so. Just go on the docks Nile. One of the worst horror visions of travel: luxury boats for cruising. There has lined up for miles, triple or even quadruple queue. On the roof are the pool, and the gringos and Gringet in swimsuits. Along the avenue, carriages alpaguent tourists. The second parallel street, the bazaar. We had never seen it: it is one kilometer long, well-paved clean as a whistle, and 100% guaranteed scam toursits: there is not an Egyptian purchases.
obese Americans are seen donning jellaba, and it is recognized in the eye of the salesman's smile laughing the guy who will do a damn good deal. Just slow down the tunes or not head to a shop to get Heler by half a dozen vendors. Result: the downtown is unbearable, and we stay at the hotel to rest and move our blogs.
Our excursion was to Aswan to visit the place called "tombs of the nobles." Cross the Nile by a small ferry, which tries to make us pay 5 pounds, while locals pay 50 dollars (cents pounds). We yell at each other and we end up spending for 1 pound. Fortunately, visiting the other side was beautiful. Halfway up the hill, carved into the cliff, are a series of tombs. We visit the interior, or admired a few prints, mostly paintings but incredibly well conserved.
We recognize the noble presenting cells offerings: duck, fruit, carrots ... Later a church in ruins, with paintings of archangels on the sides of the arch that still stand. The last grave is beautiful. The entrance wall is a serious hunter with his spear, on a boat. The guards, who opened the gates are friendly, laughing. One of them makes us magic tricks with matches. A beautiful morning, especially since it extends it by climbing to the top of the hill, which overlooked the river, the city and the desert.
is now we leave Aswan to Edfu, 100km north. We hopes to find a city that is not corrupted by tourism, but it misses. The temple is in the center city, and tens of gringos traveling in a carriage. You feel very ill at ease over there, because people are shocked and ill to see us in the supermarket, so that the cashier has even try to keep the change as a tip!
So we planned to stay a few days to blow and move the blogs, there's just one night, and we decided not to go to Luxor, because that kind of atmosphere is less insupportable.Au , we visited the temple of Edfu, and he did not disappoint.
It seems that this is the best preserved of Egypt. In fact, it is almost intact, even if it faces who have been massacred by the schretiens morons who transformed the place into a church at the beginning of the Christian era. The small temple annex was already the best we ayions seen, but on arriving at the facade we really hallucinating. It is huge, and fully engraved, processions of gods, kings, and throw shooter.
We spent 3 hours on the premises. The temple is along perhaps 100m wide, up to 30 and 12. A courtyard, then you can enter. The roof is still supported by monumental columns. Everything is serious, gods with animal heads and hieroglyphics has no end. After seeing this place, it was also said that seeing the temples collapse would be less interessant.On therefore took the train to Assyut, a city that has chosen the card to make a stop in Cairo before, especially because no tourist site is located nearby.
We arrived too early at the station, and a controller adorable, Mustafa, offers a theme in mind and begins to teach us Arabic. We spend over an hour together, and of course everything was forgotten: the colors, furniture, trees and the vocabulary of the station. We remember "lampa", but it's too easy!
Then 6am train third class. The landscape is monotonous fields and date palms, then dirty and dilapidated cities, then go again, as dreary as the Ganges plain. Assyut has arrived, there was no more tourists, which does not prevent the first hotel we try to be full. It goes along, which has room and is beautiful and clean. The receptionist took our passports and asked where is my name on the passport of Magali. He needs proof that we are married. He explained that AC is not like that in France, that our marriage certificate is in the house, but nothing was done, he repeats like a robot he needs a marriage certificate. It tests the hotel next door, and luckily they do not insist.
We knew that the Egyptian law prohibits couples who are not sick of sleeping in the same hotel room, but We also know that it does not apply to tourists ... which has viennentpas Assyut! Funny feeling to swim between two waters in this country. In town, there is a feast for 3 times nothing, we meet a former engineer at Siemens, which invites us to drink tea, and we bought a kilo of pastries because the seller is too enthusiastic. It is believed that too, but they will eat without probleem on the train the next day.
When I think back to these tourists in bathing suits on their boat in this country where women are veiled, many in full, I say to the locals, AC should do the same feeling that if the Japanese were an orgy in front of Notre Dame. Incredible, yet it is tolerated if they paid 30 euros for a kebab without fries or drink! 
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